Daleville, VA

After sneaking our dog into the hotel room and convincing the night manager that the dog "belongs to our friend" and "we are dropping her off right now", we head over to Rancho Viejo, Mexican Grill and Cantina.  We thought that it was a bit odd that the most recommended restaurant in the area was this, in the middle of the passer by town.  It is supposed to be authentic...so off we are to the fiesta.

* * *

True to theme, we ordered margaritas of course with Patrone, as we tried to get more of an idea about this restaurant from the bartender.  He says that the food is really authentic and the the live band is friends with one of the servers.  Good to know!

* * *

"Mexican food is all the same, just presented in different ways," my fellow foodie confides.  As I look through, what seems like a hundred different menu items, that statement is slowly turning into fact.  Me going with my instincts of baked beans, I know that I'm going to regret this later, but I love them, I decide to have a little bit of everything with the rice, and beef tacos.  My compadre opts for the nachos with real cheddar cheese.  That is his biggest peeve, canned cheese.  He says each time that he is allergic.  So we wait and sip and listen to the music.  Tonight will be the last night eating on the road for us.  The end is near, and reality will soon bite. 

Roanoke, VA

With the goal of making it to Virginia now seeming very attainable, we are now looking forward to winding down with a wine tasting this afternoon.

Along the way we are finally able to check out what a KFC Buffet actually looks like inside, thanks to me having to go to the washroom.  I know, the whole concept is still a bit bizarre to me.  We also saw the teenie tiniest cafe.  I don't think it really meets any building code to any degree.

* * *

Another breath taking view.  I'm beginning to realize how important it is to get out of the city every now and then.  Making our way up this steep mountain side, my taste buds are prepping for being on their best behavior so that I do not look like too much of a fool next to my wine connoiseur.

We are at Valhalla Vineyards.  They do a progressive wine tasting, and for $10 a person, you are able to sample their reserve wines from their hillside vineyard and even take their logo wine glass home.  Suprisingly, they did still charge us even though my sommelier is a buyer for a large hotel company, the decision of the owner who was a bit rough around the edges or maybe it was the stress of the day that comes with the responsibility of owning your own hillside winery.

The 'reserve' tasting consisted of two whites and six reds, topping it off with a late harvest dessert wine.  Their 'Rheingold' Chardonnay spent some time in French Oak which showed well although a bit pricey for the $24 price tag.  Chardonnay is just one of those grapes you can grow just about anywhere outside of Antartica and do relatively well with it which makes it a great grape to grow if you are looking to enhance your backyard with some grape vines.

The selection of reds were showcased by their "Valkyrie", which is a typical Bordeaux blend using the Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot, and Malbec.  Perhaps it was the Cabernet Franc which made this wine great as thise grape thrives well in the Virginia climate.  After running through the rest of the selections, we settled on a bottle of the "Valkyrie" and continued to enjoy the outdoor ambiance of being in a hillside vineyard overlooking the Roanoke proper.  The day was finished with a spectacular sunset dropping over the mountains with a deep orange glow changing shades every few minutes.

After feeling happy from our trip to Valhalla, we continued on to our roadside abode which consisted of a motel spread out on several acres, allowing us to bring the dog without attracting too much attention.  The extra land surrounding the property allowed her to roam and do her business.

Spruce Pine, NC

Last night we inched our way down Mount Mitchell onto the Blue Ridge Parkway once again, but this time behind a tow truck.  A van had broken down on it's way up the mountain that we had seen along the way, and only on our journey out of Mount Mitchell did that tow come for them, poor things.  Perhaps we could have picked them up, like 10 years ago, but fast forward and add all the creepy movies, no thanks.

This morning, we were waking up in the smallest town we've been in yet.  We drove up and down this main strip, all of about 2 miles looking for this motel in the dark.  Last night at around 9:30 pm, this place looked scary.  Referring back to the creepy movies, it looked like that verbatim, but now in the light of day, not so bad.  It really does have the small town feel and we are definately sticking out like a sore thumb. 

As we sit for lunch at Upper Street Cafe, a one of a kind, touch of chic cafe, the bubble machine in front is distracting me.  What a cute way to attract attention.  Looking around, you could see the personalized touch to everything and the food also held it's own.  We ordered and shared a cheese burger and tuna melt sandwich, and a sweet tea, of course.  They were both delicious.  I even snuck a couple of desserts to go, while taking care of the check.  Everything is made fresh on site and the home made eclair and lemon and cream cheese pound cake looked divine.  This was to make a really great driving snack, for sure. 

Mount Mitchell

The breath of air that I had just taken is the freshest that I recall since my trip to the Canadian Rockies. It’s like a high end bottle of water. As we carve our way up the Blue Ridge Mountains, the view is indescribable. What I am seeing in front of me right now is one that you usually find at Hallmark, with a Bible verse or inspirational passage over top.

Our goal is to arrive at Mount Mitchell by sunset, but with the traffic in front of us and a max speed of 35 mph, could this be done? Well, it just had to be. As we climb the mountain range, what resembles a design of the gods, due to its magnitude, the temperature drops, from 70°F to 54°F instantaneously, without warning, just like the 180° turns that we’ve been experiencing.

I find that my head is just as far out of the window as our dog’s, sniffing and keeping my eye out for animals. We haven’t seen any mountain cats, bears, or deer, we did see a ground hog, some baby raccoons, and a lot of birds.

We finally see the sign to Mount Mitchell, and with the sun beginning to set, and the park closing at 8pm, dinner was to be at the peak of the highest mountain east of the Mississippi, and so it was. After parking, bundling up, throwing on a couple of layers and a scarf, we were forced to foot it to the summit. A 360° view, and a whole bunch of posing and picturing, this was just unreal. The sky did that thing that I love most, the orange, purple and pink thing.

* * *

This evening we are dining at the summit.  We watch as the sun dots the hills, providing the perfect spotlight to what mother nature wants us to pay attention to.  On our little camper stove we are doing a two potter meal; the leftover pasta and minnestrone soup, in the other.  With my breath dancing in front of me it the soup doesn't seem hot enough and neither does the pasta, but the pots that we cooked them in are keeping my fingers from falling off.  However, despite all this, and eatng on the floor, how many dinners have you had on the tallest mountain east of the Mississippi?

Pigeon Forge, Tn.

As soon as we enter into town the first thing that comes to mind is Rocky Mountain High, John Denver.  Though they are known as the Smokey Mountains, it was the closest theme song that I could come up with for sight.

We stop into a Cherokee trading post because of my love of Native art. The store sells anything and everything, but also carries a couple of collections from local artists.  Another item that seems to be quite popular are the moccassins, Minnetonkas, and they are absolutely adorable.  I'll be sure to get me a pair before we hit the road again tomorrow.

* * *

The view from our hotel window is beautiful.  That pretty shade of pink, purple and orange is in the sky right now, with the sight of the mountains right underneath it.  Even with the cheesy country shindig spots around the area, they are no competition for this back drop.

* * *

Dinner tonight is at the Old Mill Restaurant, at the historical Old Mill Square, a national landmark in operation since 1830, which included a Pottery, Creamery, Candy Kitchen and Farm Kitchen.  The restaurant was FULL, and with it being a large place, it was quite surprising for midweek.  With a 30 minute wait now behind us, we were craving a drink to prepare us for our hearty meal.  Behold, this establishment does not serve ANY alcohol.  According to our waitress, this city used to a dry city, now that beer and wine is permitted they didn't want to sacrifice space to put in a bar.  This was the first time I had ever been in such a position, so I went for the next best thing - sweet tea (my new thing).

We order the Southern Country Fried Steak and the Sugar Cured Ham - according to our waitress, "(You're) gonna be thirsty for two days!"  The ham is that salty.  Both dinners are served with corn chowder, homemade fritters, salad, mashed potatoes, green beens and dessert, at $16.99 each.

After our salads were taken away, we were served the all-you-can-eat mashed potatoes and green beans, family style, both our dishes, looked like a heart attack.  I think my arteries prepared themselves for this one.  With all my excitement, I was disappointed.  The service was fast, the restaurant was like a well oiled machine, and the waiters were aiming to turn their tables quickly.  The food itself, was not as great as I expected it to be, since Trip Advisor says that this place has "...great food and desserts..."  The green beans were so mushy, they were definately canned and then reheated too many times.  The mashed potatoes, whether or not they are house made, were good.  My steak tasted ok, I was a bit surprised that the only way to have my steak done was well done, but the white gravy that topped it, was like eating beef flavored paste - thick and lumpy.  With regards to the ham, our waitress was right, that thing was so salty, I think my contacts dried out.  The dessert did not taste homemade at all.  We ordered the peach cobler to stay and the chocolate cake to go.  Both looked like they were from the grocery aisle and lacked that rich homey flavor.

Maybe the restaurant became too touristy, and they were more concerned with accomodating everyone, because the property is in a great location and on it's own does have a lot of character, but they are missing the mark.  While the customers are getting a lot of bang for their buck, this is where it is clear that it must be quality over quantity.  Sure us customers may be a one time visiter, maybe not, but did they really want the taste left in our mouth to be a bad one?

The Drive to Tennesse

This evening we were to stop in Tifton, GA.  Not much to see in this town, as it seems to be all TT, trackter trailer that is.  However, the drive in provided some very interesting sights.  Billboard after billboard...it was all about the "Georgia Pecans", "Firecrackers", "Buffet", and even a variety of adult themed shops with "Truck Parking in Rear".  Georgia has it all...with just these, use your imagination.

A quick stop at roadside stand for some local honey.  I couldn't resist when I saw what I was getting for $17, I know, the most I've ever paid for the stuff. How could I say, "No"?  The man was a darling and the honey came in a glass jar still with comb.

Still needing to replenish the cooler, we decided to stop for a bag of salad greens, and perhaps some pasta for dinner.  We stopped at yes, another grocery store, and it was flat out G-H-E-T-T-O, it wreaked of it, and we just didn't trust the sign outside that said fresh ground beef.  Looking at it, I think there was a layer of dust on the packaging.  So, we have the pasta, got the sauce, now searching for the salad greens...the only greens they had were collard greens.  I'm not saying anything further about that, but we ended up getting a can of French cut green beans, for our veg this evening.

* * *

The morning is crisp, and the sound of TT was all about, which I awoke to.  Our continental breakfast was an interesting spread of instant oatmeal, instant grits (we were in the South for sure), cold cereal, but the milk wasn't cold, mini muffins, toast, and yes, plastic flatware and styrofoam.  What timing, as we are dining, the health inspection agency shows up.  Two women with their clipboards are thoroughly examining the breakfast bar and the first thing they say to the lurking owner behind them, "Milk's gotta be on ice...kept cold."  We both thought that it was odd to be conducting such a thing with people still dining - I guess they were over confident...like hey, nothing to worry about.  Suggestion, chill the milk.

Again, we had the dog sitution.  Thinking that we were in the clear, this time we were the over confident ones, a housekeeper sees me walking our dog.  The maintenace guy comes out and says that a $10 charge must be added (but they didn't have our credit card since we booked through Expedia).  He explained that since we had a dog in the room it would be more work for them as, "(They) have to now change the sheets, wash the pillows, vaccuum the room..."  So, this wasn't standard?!  WHAT THE F#*%???

* * *

On the way to Pigeon Forge, Tennesse nothing really to see, but junk souvenir shops, billboards galore and even a few that say  KFC Buffet.  KFC Buffet???  REALLY???  Because one heart attack isn't enough, please endulge and have multiple, at a single payment of $7.95.

Now with KFC in mind, I was lickin' my lips for some fatty food tonight!

Esthero, Fl

Now en route, the GPS is telling us to keep left to Alligator Alley. I am convinced that somewhere along this route I will see alligators; I mean the highway is named it for a reason right. Continuing on, I am getting noxious from looking out my window at the never ending swamp. Looking hard, I don’t see any! Until finally…there it is, complete submerged with only its head above water. Since the swamp areas are completely fenced in, I am confident enough to walk from the shoulder of the interstate, down the incline, take off my sandals and get my feet wet to get a closer look at my reptilian find.

This evening we were to meet with another good friend, who runs his own fishing charter, not knowing this ahead of time, I inconsiderately chose a seafood restaurant, Blue Water Bistro…nice going! However, I could not think to go anywhere else when I saw the menu online.

The restaurant has an interesting configuration, outdoor seating with bar windows allowing for trio seating and an aqua themed dining room with vaulted ceilings. We, of course, chose to sit outside, to maximize the beautiful Florida weather. Sipping on a glass of Conundrum and Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc, we are salivating over the appetizer menu, and tonight, to our treat, there is a three for the price of one drink special. Oh la la, this could mean trouble.

Now, feeling better, I opt of the Half Dozen Oysters, we also order the “Morning After” Mussels, which is comparable to having a Bloody Mary in a tomato, citrus, vodka spiked broth, even served with a celery stalk, but made with artichokes, a nice additive I thought. We also order the King Crab Legs served hot, and the Grouper Kung Pao - Stir fried grouper, broccoli, bell peppers and zucchini in a spicy Szechuan peanut sauce. All was without a doubt, superb. Great flavor with every bite of my dish and our bartender, who was also our server was phenomenal, certainly a hot commodity for the restaurant.

Happy by now, we ask our server to send the restaurant manager our way. Maybe our motives were pure, we wanted to pay it forward by complimenting on food and service, or maybe we were hoping for a free round since it looked like we were closing down the house. She was older, and had clearly been in the business for many years, primarily in the Florida area. Obviously seeing that we are such foodies, she is more than happy to give us a tour of the kitchen, which is immaculate.

Now moving inside, we were being served by our waitress/bartender and another fine gentleman who is a huge Ty Domi fan. Imagine that, a Domi die hard here in the sunshine state. After talking about hockey, the Leafs, sky diving and fishing, a few more top offs on our wine, on the house, a shot of Grand Marnier and Red Death™ (an Alabama Slammer and a Kamikazi, mixed together), we were told to hit the road. I remember, while walking back to our hotel, only a few minutes away, THANK GOD, laying on the pavement for a little while. I was hurtin’ for sure, and we both will be come morning.

Special Thanks: Aron Blaisdell

Welcome to Miami...Bienvenidos a Miami

We are now going to see all the hype about this city.  You know the m.o. sexy, Latin, ocean view etc.  Coming in with the rain, gentle and cooling, a needful thing in 103 degree weather, the place was quiet.  Remembering that it is Sunday, perhaps the reason why, but tonight, regardless of it being the 7th day to rest, we were not going to rest, but indulge in they hype of why Will Smith wrote a song about the place.



We check in, sneaking our dog in disguised as a baby wrapped in a beach towel, as we pray that something doesn't tick her off to bark.  Finally making into the room we draw the shades to a beautiful view of the roof.  Yes, mucho scenic.

Tonight we were doin' another oldie, but goodie, as we were going to meet with a good friend from 10 years ago, a Florida native and Miami habitant, who was to show us around.  The literal translation of that being, hooking us up!

We meet at what is claimed to be the most successful Hooters in the United States, smack dab in the heart of the Bayside Marketplace - a popular shopping and restaurant area for locals and tourists a like.  The place is packed and our friend is definately VIP with the waitresses giving him hugs and kisses.  There is  a waitress with her baby at the hip as she slings drinks, an ugly dog laying on the floor next to his owner at the bar, and plenty of smokers under the covered balcony.  This was definately the place for regulars, and the rules certainly did not apply to them.

With hunger roaring in, what else do you get at a Hooters besides wings?  And so we do.  I decide to order the boneless wings with blue cheese on the side, less mess and it looked like the dish had been regurgitated.  We also ordered a regular wings and it looked like there was enough greese to refry a second batch at the bottom of the plate.  Let's call a spade to spade, these people definately weren't here for the food.  The bartender is nice enough though to put an ice filled Ziploc in your pitcher to keep it from getting warm.

As we pretend to be interested in the Dolphins defeat the chargers we come across a very 'happy' (a.k.a. drunk) couple who works on yaughts, million dollar ones, out of Mexico.  They do admit that getting paid in pesos does not make for the best cash, but do admit that this is the best life to live.  Sleeping in a cellar, with fully paid two week vacations anywhere in the world make it all worth while.  The owner of their yaught is actually Jewish Mexican.  Hmm, who knew there was such a thing.  I always believed that Mexicans were always God fearing Catholics. 

The final verdict comes down to checking out the bars along South Beach.  Okay, I was preparing myself for this hot spot that I have been hearing all about.  Heading over in a cab we pass the neighborhood of the rich and famous.  Not a whole lot of property for the money you're spending, but I guess they don't mind that since there is primo parking for their boats.

When we get out of the cab and walk up the street we are in the midst of resto overload.  Fine dining establishment, one after the other with its best dishes prepared and on display, each with a very aggressive hostess with menu in hand.  The sidewalk certainly had many people stomping on it, but these restaurants didn't seem as full as they should be.  This was one of the most obvious signs of where we are at in the economy that I have seen on our trip thus far.  There was even a dog begging for money, I'm so serious!

Past the Versace Mansion and into the very chic Hotel Victor for a VIP (Very Important Pee) where we dried our hands with some very thick paper towel, and we soon found ourselves in the midst of a drag queen performance of Whitney Houston's It's Not Right, But It's Okay, where the grand finale was her running in the traffic filled street.
 

We stopped for a drink at an Irish pub, where the bartender bought us a round that we took to go - yep, you can do that there.  Vegas style, baby!  We then stop at Clevelander, a large outdoor bar with great live reggae music.  Here the bartender gave us a three for one special.  A rum cigarello later, I hail us a cab to Ted's Hideaway, a dive bar at the end of the strip.  If you do make it here, you'd better have a good grip on your shoes or you may lose them to the sticky floor.  Oh, keep your forearms off the bar, it just doesn't feel right.  Having too much fun playing Black Eyed Peas, Gladys Knight and the Pipps, and Metallica's Turn The Page, my stomach is yearning for food.  Looking at the time, it is past midnight and all I have combating the dozen Malibu and Cokes is the gourmet meal I had at Hooters, this is going to hurt in the morning for sure.  Late check out please.   

Special Thanks to Rick Sink

Fort Pierce

At first glance I am forced to look a little harder, as it doesn't even seem like I'm in Florida anymore, but am.  Looking around: palm trees - check, ocean - check, sand - check, but abandoned streets, homes and stores mirror imaging each other made of cement from foundation to roof, not really part of my check list.

As we continue on our quest of a grocery to replenish our cooler, we stop at one "grocery" and when we go in it smells like wet dirty rag, and didn't really provide that fresh obsessed feel with their produce.  The second one, we didn't even bother going in.  Was this what we were in for?

We finally arrive to the "resort", we both agree that perhaps they are thinking a little too highly of their property, but it is on the intercoastal, right on the water, at a perfect position to admire the sunset later on this evening poolside or on the fishing docks.  The folks here appear to be pleasant.  There seems to be a lot of locals here this weekend.  Fort Pierce seems to be that sort of getaway.  Taking it all in again at second glance, I'm beginning to see why.

* * *

Today we are in the cabana, reheating pizza on the grill while staying in the shade to keep cool.  Our dog is on the sand outside of the pool deck because surprise, surprise - no dogs allowed, but she is loving the scene.  As we are working away on our laptops, we cool down by taking her into the water, where she won't go on her own.  When we do so, the minow and nedel fish tickle our legs.  There's just so many!  A few moments later, having returned back to the previous position of checking emails, what do I see in the corner of my eye, but Animal Services.  A woman (questionable if she really is one) steps out of her vehicle as she puts on a pair of gloves and proceeds to our dog.  Oh my, what the f#&%!  After apologizing for the inconvenience and misunderstanding, a police cruiser pulls in - gong show!  I at this point feel like I am on Jerry Springer, completely trailer trash explaing myself, "Yes, she has a bowl full of ice water...she just finished going in for a swim...we're sitting right here and can't let her past the fence because there are no dogs allowed."  Clearly, it was a guest at the hotel that called.  Perhaps someone even swimming in the pool.  Ask around much ass h%$&?

* * *

This evening we are totally localizing it - another term that we have adapted into our vocab.  The dive is The Ramp.  It is supposed to have some really good food.  Walking into the place, it resembles a fish and chippery, but it smelled a lot better, not like old greese.  With the kitchen in full view, we were excited to see what the menu was all about.  They have Dirty Oysters, which are raw oysters topped with caviar, Bermuda onion and sour cream, a dozen for $8.95.  Another interesting item was the Dolphin, broiled, grilled or blackened, for $14.95.  It is also served as Dolphin Parmesan with pasta or yellow rice, for $17.95.  Of course they had gator and also conch, which we ordered as a red chowder, a cup for $2.95.  The conch in the chowder was a bit chewy, but the flavor was great, with a little kick in the back.  We also ordered the Peel 'Um Shrimp, steamed with Ol' Bay seasoning sprinkled all over it and melted butter on the side, a half pound for $8.95.  I ordered a bowl of Seafood Jambalaya served on yellow rice, which turned out to be a large bowl, and therefore a meal in itself, for $4.00.  I know what you're thinking, 'Why didn't she go crazy with the oysters?'  Believe me, writing this now, I am totally upset that I didn't.  I was sick most of the time with a bad stomach flu and a fever which hit me both nights.  Go figure, raw oysters on the half shell, a dozen for $7.95 and I'm sick.  Let's stop it right there.  Let's not mention it any further.  

Walking back to the hotel, are tummies are satisfied, mine is cursing me, but I am content with whatever happens as the jambalaya was so good.  The meal was great!  We now know why it is a local fave, it's one of those diamonds in the rough types.

The sound of country twang coming from the hotel next to us draws us into their Tiki Bar.  Desperate fishermen have crowded their docks hoping for that big daddy to bite, while their wives are dancing with a beer in one hand and their baby in the other, to the latest Brooks 'n Dunn single.  Everyone is having a great time.  This is how to do it on a Saturday night, netting bait, fishing for grouper or snapper or baricuda or shark, heck, whatever bites, good music, friends, and fresh sea food.  

Jacksonville

As soon as we cross the border into the sunshine state a wave of heat hits us like siafu ants (sorry, for the odd comparison, but it is ant week on Discovery) when we open the car doors to stop at a service station.

This evening we were going to see an oldie, but a goodie – a good friend who has been living in Atlantic Beach for a few years now. We meet at a local bar, Sun Dog along a beach strip type, laced with bars and restaurants. Interestingly enough as narrow the road which ran through this palm sized district, the yellow line that divided the road also distinguished Atlantic Beach from Neptune Beach. A quick drink at this 50’s diner type bar, we decide to head over to another spot, as the band seems to be warming up, and it didn’t look like the type to compete conversation with.

However, before we head over to the restaurant, we quickly side track over to the beach, to feel the sand in between our toes and dip our feet into the water. Amazing! I have never felt ocean water so warm. It felt luke warm, the ideal skinny dipping temp, for sure. We didn’t do that though.

Still with the fine, sugar like sand stuck between our toes, carefree, we put our shoes back on and had toward the Ocean One Hotel to Azurea, and ocean side restaurant with a killer patio. We walk through the lobby and then through the corridor with blue and white mosaic tile, aqua marine colored rocks and sea shells. It was as though we were entering Poseidon’s palace.

We decide to do drinks (please notice the pluralization on that) and apps, as the menu selection is too delicious to commit to a single meal for the evening.  To begin we order the Seafood Platter - 4 oysters, 2 whole shrimps, complete with heads on, and tuna and pineapple tartar.  All flavors did something different for the pallet and the tartar was definately provided a pallet cleanser with a fresh surprise because of the pineapple factor in it.  The second app that we order are the Lamb Lollipops.  An amazing flavor with a badass reduction.  We were definately smacking our lips together.

It was a great night full of stories from way back when and now.  We even learn that St. Augustine is the nation's oldest city.  Huh, go figure.  As we look up into the star filled sky, we also realize that we have been having all this fun under the careful watch of Venus. 

Special Thanks: Derek Frey

Myrtle Beach, South Carolina

The longest ferry ride of my life, over two hours which left Ocracoke and sailed us into Cedar Island, en route to Myrtle Beach. We drive along the strip that I have renamed the déjà vu strip because there is always a WINGS beach apparel store, a Bargain Beach apparel store, a sea food and steak buffet and a mini golf adventure place that ridiculous in size and theme i.e. Jurassic Park, Treasure Island, Gilligan’s Island, complete with at least one giant waterfall. Laughing about it, we conclude that there must be an incomprehensible demand for mini golfing in the Myrtle Beach area and a ridiculous obsession about out doing one another on the complexity of their mini putts.  The tada factors look like paper maché gone insane. 

Accommodations for this evening is at a modest hotel further down the strip, but surprise, surprise, right next to a mini putt, but just walking distance to the beach. We check in with a very nice gentleman, laid back with a real southern twang in his voice and a signature “Y’all take it easy, now.”

Dinner was a feat of cleaning out the cooler and that consisted of leftover pasta and yes, the Johnsonville Brats. Since our room was without a stove of course, we were sort of indoor camping as we cooked on our camping stove, but we did so after we disconnected the smoke detector.

We spend the next day beaching and the water is refreshing minus the gashing shell border that you must first pass before you get to a decent depth. As we jump over the high waves like dolphins, hunger strikes and we head back to shore for some peanut butter and jelly sandwiches and beer.

The sun begins to go down. Having been in total sunlight and now in the shade, we knew that our beach day had come to an end.

With us being super economical last night, tonight called for a good dinner. Since the thought of sea food and especially steak that has been sitting out for hours didn’t tickle our fancy, we were going to have the next best thing, ribs. Damon’s Grill on the water front, famous for their ribs lured us right in. With a half rack each we were licking our fingers. The dinner was delicious, but the service was outright rude. The next course was already being served before the previous one was done and the bill before we were even done our meal. Oh don’t worry, we left a much deserved tip, but not without putting down our thoughts on the credit card receipt. If you have ever worked as a waiter, you know that all credit card receipts must be turned in to reconcile at the end of the evening, so we knew for sure, there was no walking away from our constructive criticisms.

OBX aka Outer Banks

On the road again…destination: Outer Banks, specifically Ocracoke Island, pronounced oh-kruh-khok. The drive is certainly one of a kind, with plenty of eye candy. I don’t mean men, but lots of interesting things to look at. Not being from South Carolina, I had a lot of, “Hmm, you don’t see that everyday” moments. Par example: The largest hammock, which we found at Nag’s Hammock store in Point Harbor, sand dunes that were inches away from taking over the highway, multilevel homes with porches that wrapped almost around the whole house for every floor on stilts striving for that non-impaired view of the ocean, a flying saucer home and plenty of fresh produce along the way from local farmers.

Passing through little town, after little town, we couldn’t help but feel like such outsiders with our eyes growing over what is to the local, just the way things are, such as a drive through liquor and cigarette store or a restaurant bathroom with a curtain for a door.

We just make it for the ferry ride to Ocracoke, and it’s a beautiful sail into the sunset. Beer in hand with our dog in the other loosing fur due to her fear of the ocean, it was a romantic time with the breeze in our hair pushing some of it in my mouth. I will never be that woman with her hair literally flowing in the wind, but will always be the one with it stuck on my gloss and on my tongue, yum!

Just a 10 minute drive into the hotel district, was to our surprise the entire island. I have to say when I Google mapped it, I was under the impression that there was quite a ways from one point of the island to the other, but it was literally a sneeze. Our accommodations, from the exterior looked like the most descent place to sleep, but so goes the cardinal rule, never judge the book by its cover. With it looking like a pretty busy night on the island, quite surprising for midweek, we were completely ripped off for a rate, hello it’s September! That was just the beginning, the room was atrocious, with pink faux marble countertops, a stench that would make your grandmother’s moth ball filled attic smell like the Body Shop, and to top it off, windows that did not open. The only thing that would save us tonight would be our scented candles that were lit as the first order of business.

Since the sun was now completely down, and the moon as the only exterior light on, we knew that if we wanted dinner we didn’t have much time to do so. Being on an island, I of course wanted oysters, and he wanted crab. The place which claimed to have the freshest seafood on the island was already closing up. It was eight o’clock and the servers were already counting their tips. The next place to go was three quarters of a mile away, but with two glasses of sauvignon blanc in hand, it was far enough to allow us to finish them.

The restaurant that was seemed to be poppin’ with a parking lot full of cars was Howard’s Seafood and Raw Bar. It was a casual resto with wooden booths and a screened in porch with license plates from all over the United States as their wall feature. We of course ordered the oysters which were very local, judging by their freshness, size and barnacles still intact. The crab legs, which were just Alaskan snow crab, and not king. The piece de resistance was supposed to be the Hawaiian grilled mahi with green beans and rice, but that was like chewing on a dish rag, the rice tasted like it was reheated over and over again (and I know rice, I’m Asian), the best thing on that plate were the green beans, and those were most likely frozen. It was like a gong show on a platter. The wine was great! But that was probably because we had a head start three quarters of a mile before.

We were not looking forward to the 30 minute walk back, but the half bottle of wine that we took to go helped a bit. It was very dark and desolate with the occasional bike rider that went by, but this was island living, up early and down early, with the sound of sea gulls and crashing waves, boats bobbing in the harbor and air of hard working souls at rest.